Refinancing replaces your current mortgage with a new one — usually to cut the rate, sometimes to change the term. This calculator compares the two loans honestly: both payments, both lifetime costs, the monthly savings, and the break-even point — how many months of savings it takes to earn back the closing costs.
How It Works
- Current loan. Your remaining balance is amortized over the months you have left at your current rate, giving today's payment and the total you will pay if you change nothing.
- New loan. The same balance (plus the closing costs, if you choose to roll them in) is amortized at the new rate over the new term.
- Comparison. Monthly savings are the old payment minus the new. Total savings are the full remaining cost of the current loan minus the full cost of the new loan — where the new loan's cost adds closing costs paid out of pocket; rolled-in costs are instead captured through the larger balance and higher payment.
- Break-even. Closing costs divided by monthly savings, reported to one decimal place. It is calculated whenever the new payment is lower — using the full closing costs whether you pay them in cash or roll them in, because you bear them either way.
Both loans use the standard amortization formula, with a simple balance-divided-by-months fallback at a 0% rate.
The Formula
Input Parameters
| Parameter | Unit | Description | |---|---|---| | Current Principal | Currency | The balance you owe today. | | Current Interest Rate | % per year | Rate on your existing loan. | | Current Remaining Months | Months | Payments left on the existing loan. | | New Interest Rate | % per year | The refinance offer's rate. | | New Loan Term | Months | Length of the new loan — 360 for 30 years, 180 for 15. | | Closing Costs | Currency | Lender and settlement fees for the new loan. | | Roll Costs Into Loan | Yes / No | Adds the costs to the new balance instead of paying cash. |
Worked Example
You owe 4,000 in closing costs, paid out of pocket.
- Current payment: **412,732.38 in total.
- New payment: **383,589.63 in total, closing costs included.
- Monthly savings: 29,142.76.
- Break-even: 138.09 = 29.0 months. Stay in the home beyond about two and a half years and the refinance pays for itself; sell before then and it loses money.
Rolling the 1,606.93** (you are now borrowing 112.79, stretches break-even to 35.5 months, and reduces total savings to **2,073 difference is the interest on financing your own fees for 20 years.
Interpreting the Results
- Break-even versus your plans is the first check. A 29-month break-even is attractive if you will stay five years, and a mistake if you will move in two.
- Total savings is the second check — and the one that exposes term games. Refinancing 20 remaining years into a fresh 30-year term slashes the payment but restarts the clock; total savings can go negative even with a lower rate, because you pay interest for a decade longer.
- Negative monthly savings (the new payment is higher — common when shortening the term) means there is no cash-flow break-even at all; the tool reports none. A shorter-term refinance can still win on total savings, as paying the loan off faster destroys interest cost.
A Note on Rate Drops
Rules of thumb ("refinance when rates fall 1%") are crude substitutes for the break-even calculation. A 0.5% drop on a large balance with low closing costs can break even in under two years, while a 1% drop with heavy fees on a small balance may never pay back before you move. Your balance, your costs and your horizon decide — the three numbers this tool combines.
Limitations
- Principal and interest only. Taxes, insurance and other escrow items are excluded — they continue unchanged under either loan.
- No PMI effects, prepayment penalties or cash-out. Dropping private mortgage insurance can add savings the tool does not count; a prepayment penalty on your current loan should be added to the closing costs you enter.
- Fixed rates, held to term. The comparison assumes both loans run their full course at the stated rates.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I pay closing costs in cash or roll them into the loan?
Cash, if you can spare it. The worked example shows why: financing 2,073 in interest over the term and pushes break-even from 29.0 to 35.5 months. Rolling in still beats not refinancing here — it just beats it by less.
How long do I need to stay in the home for a refinance to make sense?
At least until the break-even month — closing costs divided by monthly savings. Beyond that point, every month is pure gain; before it, you have not yet recovered the cost of switching.
Can refinancing ever increase my total cost even with a lower rate?
Yes — by extending the term. Stretching a 20-year remainder into a new 30-year loan adds ten years of interest payments. The monthly payment falls, which feels like saving, but total cost can rise. Watch the total savings figure, not just the payment.